Turbo D16

I got it a while back. Paid around $300 on egay.
Idk if its worth it for that power goal, since alot of people making 350whp on ported stock IM.
But if u do get it be ready for some headache with IVAC valve. Venom IM didn't have port for it, u have to fabricate a bracket.

Turbo install and oil lines

IHeartBoost, she still not running .. thought she would be up by now. But I didn't realize that summer session will come so fast.
Meanwhile here some progress:

Since i couldn't get the old pics from we-tod-did-racing.com i took couple snaps from the Intake Side Ports. Before they get dirty....
So Fresh and So Clean, Clean !!!




Almost ready.... I can feel sh*t spoolin...








I T'd stock oil press, electric press sender and turbo oil feed line. Will it work?






Vick

nice

if it was me, i'd keep the stock sender as close to the block as possible.

with the depth of this build, i'd think about a sandwich plate for the feed and aftermarket sensor

I really don't need the stock sensor. I let it plug just to avoid the light coming up on the cluster. I read somewhere that the light wouldn't come on if you keep 1+psi.

As per electric sender i didn't get it yet, its hard to work with a blue print only.



I let the sender be straight with the fittin, thinking that would get the first impact from the oil press before it continues on the feed line. Any input would be welcome.

i'd swap where the oil line and the stock sender are

^^^ swap the stock sender and the oil line? Sounds logical.

Suspension and brakes

But meanwhile here is some updates.

Earlier I had problem with the cooling plug for IVAC. I found a simple solution.
d16z6 comes with a breather by the upper radiator hose. Where y8 doesn't.



I tapped a small fitting to replace the breather.



Painted and installed.



Next: Suspension and brakes.




And then she sits naked!!!




Dirty and rusty.



Coming soon: Fresh!!!



Vick.

Update:

Three weeks ago finished summer session. For the first time had all this time to work on the car.
First day i start mounting all the suspension back on w. no problem. Changed front rotors and brakes pads. At this time was getting late so i thought let me take out the SRS system. Took out the: glove compartment, airbag, blower, SRS computer and started taking the cables. One of the cables had stuck behind the heater. Like an idiot instead of cutting the wire i tried to pull. While pulling, the f*n wire let go, which got me out of balance and i hit my hand on the frame of glove compartment. Make the story short went to ER and got brand new stitches and injured tendon on my big thumb. F*CK!!!! I was pissed... always something!!!! Guess who was happy? "My girl" She thought it was time for me to take off time for the beach... Actually wasn't bad idea..... got some tanning

After I took of the stitches went back to the garage.
I did some work on the fuel line, installed the inline fuel filter, flywheel and clutch.

Since money is tight i decided to paint the wheels instead of getting new ones.
Right now I'm half away on the process, but I can tell you one thing if you don't have patience don't work on wheels... they take forever!!!. Since i didn't paint em yet i kinda need help on color.

Any opinion on BBS Gold with polished lip?



Cheers,
Vick

Wheels

Before:


Strip of paint:



Sanded and polished lip:






As for the paint. I ended up w. WRX sti gold...

Cheers
Vick

Your oil line will be fine with the feed then the stock sensor, I've run mine like that for over a year with no problems.

Did you attach the sender also? if you have a pic would be helpful.

Yes, I'm at work right now but I'll take a picture when I get home, the engine isn't in the car so it'll be a good pic

if i'm not mistaken that diagram has change from what it was before.

anyways, the oil feed is in the right place. i would swap the 'oil press sender' and the 'stock oil press sensor'

the stock oil pressure sender should see the least pressure out of the three so will be the first to sense your oil pressure is drastically low.

Nah the diagram is the same...

But looking at the sender so far out from the block changed my mind. Afraid that is going to brake from vibration. So i ordered an other oil line so i can relocate everything to the chassis.

Here is a the new diagram.



I'm using FastTurbo vacuum manifold as an oil manifold. Any ideas?

i'm gritting my teeth at the idea of relocating the sensors but i guess it could work, but you will see inaccurate oil pressures for sure.

fwiw, i've been running a 3 port tee from the stock sensor location for over a year with no problems

^^ i guess ill use a T also... if it fails i know who to blame

Wheels update.

meanwhile i got some progress on the wheels..
masked and ready for a primer. used duct tape around the top lip




i forgot to take a pic primed wheel but i got pic of the primer can.
i recommend using it on aluminum wheels.




first coat [front].




first coat [back].




maskin tape off. clear coat [front].




maskin tape off. clear coat [back].




some angle shots.




Cheers
Vick

MAKE SURE YOU DONT ACCIDENTALLY BREAK OFF THE male PART OF THE T IN THE BLOCK

sorry for caps, but necessary

Any news on the pic =)

btw no love on wheels? anyone?

I want the same exhaust you are using. I though only apexi made those in black. Vibrant? Check it out. LOVE IT.

Sorry it took me so long, I forgot.